/I have a 1995 620 SLi. I have a problem with the electric window on the driver's
door. As it gets near the top when closing, it slows right down, and stops with
about an inch to go. The same thing happens at the bottom when I open it. I have
had the mechanism (supposedly) cleaned by my local dealer (Pinewood in Caterham,
Surrey) but this has actually made it worse. A mate of mine had a 1995 Honda Accord
and he had exactly the same problem. Honda told him it was a design fault with
the window rubbers. Has anyone had the same problem and know how to sort this?
It is driving me round the bend! The problem is worse in cold weather. Thanks
very much. Jude Burcombet
My 1990 820i developed a speedo malfunction in that it began to read erratically
,low at low speeds and high at high speeds. Since the other instruments were ok
and the mileometer still read accurately I thought to fix it with a quick transplant
of the complete instrument panel from a breakers and easily found one for £20
from SSL . THen I made the mistake of deciding to swap the mileometer from my
old unit into the new one to preserve the mileage history (the replacement actually
had a lot less miles than my own ) - to access this unit means taking off the
needle and then the dial , and it would appear that the makers never meant us
to remove the needle ! I easily swapped the mileometer but refitting the needle
appears to have displaced the spindle and the smooth damped motion has gone forever
. I now have two duff speedos.Can anyone offer any any advice or insight into
removing and replacing these needles in case I try it again, or do you know of
a speedo repair service in this country I might try ?
Greetings from a content Rover 600 owner in Ireland.
Re: the ABS warning
lamp. I encountered similar annoyances. It simply turned out to be a poor earth
connection to the Bosch unit. The eyelet on the stud would jump around when the
car was first switched on (just at the time the control unit was doing it's checks)
consequently it would flag a "fault" Laurence Conroy, Kilkenny, Ireland.
I have heard that it is possible to diagnose ABS faults using equipment supplied
with the car, by making a connection under the dashboard and counting flashes
of the warning light. Is this true? Do I need special equipment? How do I do it?
A/ I can tell you how to do this on the Bosch 2E ABS
unit as fitted to 800's and Sterlings.Remove cover near steering column and locate
the 4 pin square plug near the steering column.Make sure the ignition is off.Unplug
the black 2 wired plug.Connect the yellow/green wire to the black wire,and turn
the ignition on.The codes come out as flashes on the ABS warning light on the
dash board,i.e.flash,pause,two flashes =12.Code 12 usually comes up 3 times.this
is either the start of code reading,or no fault if it continues to flash 12.SOME
CODES:16=solenoid valve LH.17=solenoid valve RH.18=solenoid valve rear.19=Valve
relay.25=speed sensor.35=pump motor.37=stop light switch.39/41=n/s/f sensor.42/43=o/s/f
sensor.44/45=n/s/r sensor.46/47=o/s/r sensor.48=supply voltage too low.55=control
unit defective.Hope this helps.
I have just changed my altenator due to the old one not charging the Battery.
Since changing the altenator the car's idle revs were about 500rpm where as before
it was around 900-950rpm. I have taken all of the slack out of the Accelerator
cable and it now idles around 950rpm but it keeps reving itslef to 1,250rpm then
drops back to 950rpm and so on. Yet it doesn't do this all of the time sometimes
it will sit at 950rpm for 2-3mins plus before the eratic reving. Matt Chilton
We have just bought a Rover 416 SLi and are having a few problems if any one can
help. Main problem getting the car started we are having to recharge the batteries
every other week. Once it is charged it needs jump starting to get goinf then
will be fine for a while then suddenly stops again. Anyone got any ideas.
Andrew via e-mail P.S. Bought a new battery but no change.
out the alternator it should give approx 14.5 Volts after starting, and drop to
about 13 to 14 volts after running for a period of time. The alternator should
also adjust it's output to match the load so with all the lights on the alternator
should still maintain at least 13 volts. If these readings are not obtainable
have the alternator checked out. The voltages mentioned are all measured at the
battery terminals with a digital multi range meter. Best of luck. (Laurence Capewell)
Reply/ Many thanks bought new alternator. All fine now. (Andrew)
My relay unit on top of the blower on his heater keeps blowing, I have an 800.
I've had to bypass the relay unit to get the blower working. Steve Thorne
A/ It may be an indication that the motor on the blower is on the way out
and drawing more current than it should, is the blower motor more noisey than
it used to be? Any other thoughts anyone?
A/ Heater motor fills with
water in brushes.Remove heater motor(3 screws under heater box). Remove metal
cover from bottom of motor and you`ll find it all in a mess. Remove clips and
pull brushes out of their housings and clean it all up. Clean up commutator on
motor.Rebuild and refit.Put a small hole in rubber cooling pipe that leads into
bottom of motor. This will allow small amounts of water to drain out instead of
filling motor. Steve Thornton.
I need some help with an alarm problem on my 620ti M reg, I hope somebody can
help. The alarm, original fitment Rover, didn't work when I bought the car. Activating
the central locking will set the indicators flashing three times, but no setting
noise (Is there supposed to be a 'beep' or something?), no amount of aggravation
will set the alarm off, including leaving the windows open & waving or tapping
the sensor. I guess this means it is not setting. It seems to be linked to the
ignition switch, because if you set the alarm while sitting in the car and then
place the key in the ignition the alarm turns off. Is this normal? Can't work
out which fuse is for the alarm or even find any parts of it, does it use the
horns or has it its own siren? Has somebody maybe taken a fuse out, or disabled
something? Steve Higerty
A/ From what I have read from your problem
your alarm is working fine . When pressing your remote to set the alarm as long
as all doors boot and bonnet are closed your indicators will flash straight away
BUT for 15 seconds there is a sensory period in this 15 seconds the alarm will
figure out which of its sensors to set. The immobiliser will set always unless
the key is in the car ( I will get to that in a minute) then all the door sensors
and if there is no movement including air movement after the 15 second the interior
movement sensor will be activated. You said you sat in the car set the alarm and
tried starting it and the immobiliser went off this is because there is a chip
in your remote. If the remote is present when trying to start the car the immobiliser
will be de-activated (try doing the same but taking your remote off your key ring
and holding it away from the steering column this will test the alarm. To test
the interior sensor you will have to sit still for 15 seconds (it can be done)
and for the door sensors open the window set it and then open the door. Hope this
A/ Easiest way to test the alarm is to arm it with the windows down , then
pull the lock cylinder up with your hands and this sets the alarm off instantly
A/ I also have a 620ti (M reg), on setting the alarm it will flash the
indicators 3 times with NO sound and activate the central locking. The indicators
signify that the alarm is activated!!
I also thought my alarm was not working,
however my local Rover garage tested this and showed me it in operation. One thing
to note is, if you activate and deactivate the alarm in quick succession its response
is quite slow. This is NORMAL
I believe that this alarm does not have a movement
sensor (i.e my alarm will not sound if I bounce the car up and down on the suspension),
but it does have a motion detector inside the car, which is not activated if any
of the windows are open!!
My alarm was put to the test 3am one morning, the
culprit a moth which, I found flying around inside the car. This confirmed the
motion sensor worked. You could try finding your very own moth?
the ignition key in the lock will deactivate the alarm but not the immobiliser,
you should not be able to start the car without depressing thealarm remote button.
A/ Try sitting in the car then setting the alarm (with the little pad you
have to set it) wait about 45 seconds for it to fully set and then start to move
While you are at it try the immobiliser out .
First set the alarm
then open the door with the key, then try to turn the engine on .
If the alarm
still doesn't work your best bet would be to go to your nearest rover dealer...
A/ With respect to 600 alarm systems, no it should not make any kind of
setting noise. If the alarm cannot be set off by tapping the ultrasonic sensor
this could mean the sensor itself is malfunctioning but the rest of the alarm
is OK. Try setting the alarm with a window open, wait 1 minute then unlock the
door with the sill button and open it - the alarm should go off (provided the
door switch is working OK too). Depending on the model year all Rovers had something
called passive immobilisation. What this means is that after turning the engine
off, removing the key and opening the drivers door the engine immobiliser will
auto set. When this was first introduced you would subsequently have to press
the unlock button on the remote to release the immobiliser. Later an intelligent
system was introduced whereby the car would send a radio signal to the remote
when an attempt was made to start the car, the remote would respond with its unlock
signal. Provided the car recieved the correct unlock signal the immobiliser would
be released without any other interaction from the driver. This system requires
the remote and ignition key to be on the same ring. Again depending on model and
model year, early cars used a separate sounder, later cars used the standard horn.
Again depending on model and model year the alarm electronics is probably incorporated
into the cars Central Control Unit.
Old shape 200s have a fixed code remote
and should not need "resetting" after power disconection. The most common
fault on any remote is loss of battery contact internally. Take the remote apart
and clean the board and all contacts with electrical contact cleaner (nail varnish
remover is a fair alternative) not forgetting the batteries too. Bend the contacts
a little to improve their connection to the batteries, allow the cleaner to dry
off and reassemble the remote. It should now work perfectly for a year or two
before the process needs repeating. Paul Carter
On long journeys the indicators on my 414 SLi seem to stop working. It happened
yesterday after travelling for about an hour and a half on the motorway. Turning
the heater down seems to fix the problem. Any idea to what it could be ? The car
is a 1990 model.
A/ Possibly the heater blowing hot air onto the relays?
Does anyone have a difinative answer?
A/ It will be just the flasher
unit thats faulty. Common problem! Its in fusebox under dash.Bit fiddly to remove
as it has clips down each side to the fusebox. Steve Thornton.
Electric windows, non specifically, all, one,two,or sunroof opening by themselves
whilst turning ignition on cranking engine. Also when operating switches to close
each switch beeps until fully closed. Been through Haynes manuals, but unable
to find any relevant info, except the testing of inputs/outputs of equipment.
Only other fault on car is intermittent ABS warning light, which has been coming
on and of for about 5yrs and there are no mods or non Rover bits fitted. The car
is a late 93 820SLi Auto saloon with Rover alarm (could this be at fault) Any
info would help.
A/ Faults like this are always hard to determine the
cause, although usually turn out to be an earthing fault. One of our member recently
had a similar problem, where when driving along, some or all of the windows opened
& then the engine cut out (a problem if you are on the motorway!) the cause
ended up being the main earth lead from the battery, which was broken inside the
outer sheath, so it was hard to detect. It took him about 6 months to sort the
problem. But now everything is ok.
A/ The battery must have been disconnected,
as a result the switches have to be syncronized again. Turn on your ignition,
but don't start the car. Hold down drivers door window switch, all the way down
until bleeping stops and up again, hold until bleeping stops. Repeat this for
all windows and sunroof, all from drivers door control pack. This will cure the
problem. The lazy locking will work again once the windows are re-programmed.
A/ This happens when the battery voltage drops.Either your battery is low
on charge?faulty or starter is drawing too much current.Alternatively a bad corroded/connection
in the drivers door multiplug (car side of the rubber boot to door ) will also
reproduce this fault. Steve Thornton.
I drive a 1997 P registered 216 cabrio fitted with a Rover branded R760 radio/
cassette. I would like to install a new head unit incorporating CD player rather
than cassette, or alternatively a boot mounted CD auto changer. The problem I
have is that my car has a remote display for the radio/cassette (on the dashboard)
and steering wheel controls for the radio/ volume. Is it possible to fit another
head unit and still keep the remote display and the steering wheel controls? Please
advise. David Gee.
A/ I may have an answer to Davids' question. The
remote harness on the steering wheel and dashboard are integral parts of the main
harness, from experience there is no way of keeping these facilities when buying
an off the shelf CD player, the only way to keep these facilities is to buy a
Rover branded autochanger, head unit & harness from a main dealer.
I had a car audio dealer look at my head unit, he advised a philips cd-autochanger,
it plugged into the back of the rover head unit & all works great inc. the
What is the programming sequence for a R660 radio? Is it the same as or simular
to the R750 ie Using the PF1 and station selection keys to enter the code. Spencer
Answers c/o the club please.
I was dissapointed to find that my 414i only came with one remote key fob, the
garage said that was all they had. On visiting my local Rover dealer they said
that they could get another but its would cost £50.00 plus another £20.00
to programme. Do you know if I could get a key fob from from any other source,
cheaper if possible?
A/ Does anyone know of anywhere in the UK who
Is there a manual available for 200 and/or 400 series Rover? I currently have
A/ There is an extensive Workshop Repair Manual available from Rover,
which comes in two large volumes. The manual covers all 200/400 models up to 1995.
The part number is AKM6987. (Cost is approx £45.00 we believe (8/99)). There
is, also, a Haynes manual available for 214/414 & 216/416 (1991-1995) &
also for the latest shape 200/400 series. Members can obtain Haynes manuals via
the club, give us a call.
A/ I have a K-reg 220 GTi. I had problems
buying a manual (apparently Haynes didn't make one for 220's as not enough were
produced???), but solved it by buying the 216 manual for any electrics and bodywork,
and the 820 manual for the engine. No problems since! Darran
Do I need to tell my car insurance company that I have fitted a Pipercross air
induction kit to my `94 Rover 416?
A/ Official answer is that any modifications
to any vehicle that would alter the performance/value of that vehicle should be
reported to your insurance company. This includes the fitting of after market
items such as alloy wheels. Basically, you need to cover yourself, so that if
an accident does occur, the insurance company do not have any reasons for a let
out of payment.
I have a P reg Rover 600 Diesel and I am having problems with the electronic key
for the door locks. About 3 months ago one of the electronic keys stopped working.
I changed the batteries but with no joy. I questioned my dealer about getting
it repaired but he said a replacement would be about £100 with an extra
£30 labour to 'set it up', so I did not bother. Now my spare electronic
key has also stopped working - again not the batteries. The light on the key operates
but it will not work the locks. I am now forced to use the manual key. Has anyone
else had this problem?
Can someone suggest somewhere I can have the keys repaired
A/ I have a possible solution to the problem of the non-functioning
key fob suffered by the 600 Diesel owner. If the design is the same as my 1995
214SEi key fobs, they need resetting; a Rover salesman gave me this procedure
which worked for both my fobs:
First, remove the batteries, then press and
hold each button for ten seconds; replace the batteries, then unlock the car,
and press the lock button on the fob four times quickly. This should reset the
fobs. Hope this works, Alec J. Wood.
A/ The battery on my 620 Si has
just run out, I have replaced the batteries but with no joy. I spoke to a MG-Rover
dealer in Bridgend South Wales and he said that althought the information supplied
above about resetting the fob is correct for the 200 and 400 series it will not
work for the 600. In your service book there should be a set of barcodes and these
are what is needed to re-program the key fobs he quoted me £25 + VAT if
I had the bar codes and £85 (not sure if this includes VAT or not) if i
didn't because they would need replacing. Hope this helps Mark Edwards.
We have a 1994 820SLi which has a problem. When first started the airbag light
comes on as normal for ten seconds, and then attempts to go out. Unfortunately
it doesn't quite accomplish this and will then flash for about 20 mins, it then
settles down to being on permanently. When I spoke to the local Rover dealer they
suggested that it was the coupler underneath the steering wheel, so we replaced
that at a cost of £200 but it made no difference. On testing the airbag
system the results show a fault with the pre-tensioners, but it can't be that
, the car's too old! They now suggest the loom should be replaced at a cost of
£350 +£300+ to fit it. The airbag is not a part of the MOT test (yet!),
and the light can be switched off with varying degrees of success (i.e. 1 day
to 3months). Has anybody out there got any ideas,please?? Andy Goodman(960085/9)
A/ Have you checked all connections, before you start spending money?
Has the vehicle previously been involved in any sort of accident? (Adrian Fell).
A/ It is correct that you would have to replace the harness, but I know
a cure.The problem is that in the harness is a resistor for the passenger airbag,left
and right pre tensioners even though they aren`t fitted.Foreign models have them.Depending
on which side pre tensioner it failed on, if you look under the dash for the yellow
harness,follow along the metal cross bars on the corresponding sides,cut open
the harness till you find a resistor. It is set in clear plastic so you will have
to carefully cut this off. The resistor is simply crimped to the wires,this is
the problem.Now solder up the crimped joints and insulate it all back up.Now you
can take it to your Rover dealer and have the airbag error deleted. If you live
in Leeds I could do it for you.Contact > firstname.lastname@example.org
I've been told that you cannot disconnect the battery from a Rover 820SE. Why?
A/ If you disconnect the battery from either an 820E or 820SE then the
computer loses it's memory & you have to get it reprogrammed by your local
Rover dealer. If you need to remove the battery from your car, you will need an
auxiliary supply to the battery leads first to ensure a constant voltage supply
to the computers memory.
A/ If you have disconnected battery already
you can reset the factory settings to a basic setting by holding throttle pedal
down(IGNITION ON) until the temp guage goes up and light flashes. Steve